A shorter day today, beginning the gradual ascent to Cruz del Ferro (over 1500 meters, and the highest point on the Spanish section of the Camino). Tradition has it that at Cruz del Ferro the pilgrim adds a stone to the cairn that is gathered around the foot of the iron cross which gives that point its name. I have with me a suitable small pebble which I have carried all the way from Briançon (through the Berry region too, for that matter). I remember selecting it: J and I walked down to Deep Cove for a swim in early summer (both the time and the place seem so far away from here). Wandered along the water´s edge barefoot until one particular pebble called out to me. Tomorrow it gets a new home.

The ride today was not difficult. Again, much of the Camino was alongside the road, and unless there was a clear advantage (a diversion through cornfields, for example) I simply followed the road and kept one eye on the Camino.

This morning the albergue was active early: the first sounds of movement around 6:00; by 7:15 it was empty except for a couple of (other) lethargic cyclists still dozing. I was on the road as soon as it was light enough to ride safely — just before 8:00. The morning air is definitely cold (as opposed to cool) now — fleece over T-shirt, but still riding in shorts. Breath visible in the air. My shadow cast alongside me against the stalks of corn.

I´m staying at a private albergue here: the Albergue del Pilar (shown above). They have a bar as well, and it has a clubhouse feel, everyone sitting around comparing blisters. There is another albergue in town which is run by the Confraternity of Saint James. It is reported to be very nice: there was a lineup of about 40 people at 2:00, awaiting the 2:30 opening, when I arrived. Also a small sign saying that cyclists would be admitted at 6:00 — provided there were beds remaining. It seemed unlikely. A group of British vocalists happened to be in town — probably on pilgrimage — and sang two ancient pilgrimage songs for the waiting guests. Quite lovely, and reminds me that friends in Deep Cove had loaned me two of their CDs which featured such music as a preparation for this journey.

That´s it for this entry. My appetite is back to normal, and Santiago is getting closer…

A bientot.